Many
belly dancers around the world travel to Egypt to take in the pyramids,
shop at the costumers, and see exciting shows. Unfortunately, many also
miss some of the highlights of the country at Egypt’s southern gate,
Aswan. With this destination being a short one hour twenty minute flight
away from Cairo (or take an air-conditioned overnight train), it’s easily
accessible.
Visitors to Aswan will have a hard time deciding what to see first. If you
opt for a package tour, most will include visits to the Unfinished
Obelisk, the High Dam, the temple at Philae and a felluca ride, so I will
start with those options.
Aswan
has been famous for its granite quarries for centuries. The unfinished
obelisk of Queen Hatshepsut was begun here centuries ago. At 137 feet
tall, it would have been the largest in existence had a crack not
developed in the stone. Tourist from all over climb the rocks to see with
their own eyes the ambitious work of the ancients.
The
High Dam was begun in 1960 by President Nasser to protect the land from
low annual floods, conserve water, and provide hydroelectricity. The
impressive structure that saved the country from famine is 12,500 feet
across and 364 feet high. While the view from the visitor’s pavilion is
lovely, no photographs of dams or other government structures are
permitted.
If you
find the temples of Egypt interesting, the temple at Philae should not be
missed. It is unique in many ways. First, the temple is on an island and
must be reached by boat. It was relocated here after being submerged under
water after the construction of the Aswan and High dams. This natural,
somewhat remote landscape adds to the sacredness of the site and helps the
traveler to appreciate its beauty.
The
temple of Philae was the center for the worship of Isis. The last temple
to use Egyptian hieroglyphics, it is a blend of Ptolemaic and Roman
architecture. While some scholars point out the differences in structure
as “mistakes,” the carvings depicted throughout the temple indicate a
commitment to the established religious beliefs.
Fellucas are sailboats used for the practical purpose of transportation,
for cruising, and for enjoying a leisurely ride on the Nile. They are
available at all hours of the day and night, but I believe the most
beautiful time for a felluca ride is at sunset. If you are with a large
group, ask the captain if musicians are available. The Nubian sailors are
happy to sing and entertain you with traditional songs. Large groups may
also be charmed by the approach of small children in tiny boats singing
folk songs in the language of the tourists in the boat. Don’t be surprised
by high pitched voices singing, “Oh Susana.”
No
visit is complete without a stop at the market. While it has become
increasingly more touristy, the suq was and continues to be a place for
locals to shop. Stalls offer an interesting array of products including
spices, fabric, live chickens, music, papyrus, and antiques. The Nubians
dressed in long galabeyas and white turbans dodging donkey carts down
narrow streets create an exotic picture unlike any other. It’s a must-see
experience.
Nubians
are a distinct people with a culture and language all their own. They are
not Arabs. They are not Egyptians. These people used to live between the
southern part of Egypt and the northern part of Sudan. The creation of
dams flooded their native homeland. In an effort to save some of their
culture, the Nubian Museum was created by UNESCO. This fascinating museum
takes you from the Nubia’s prehistory, the Pharaonic dynasties (yes, some
kings were actually Nubian!), and onward through the Christian and Muslim
periods. Although the artifacts are diverse and wide-ranging, sadly, it
only reflects a small part of this rich culture.
Elephantine Island is the oldest known inhabited part of Aswan. The center
for the worship of Khnum, creator of humankind and god of the Nile flood,
was here. In addition to his temple, the Necropolis of the Sacred Rams and
Hatshepsut’s Temple of Satet are here. Much of this area is closed off for
excavation. Indeed it is so overrun with archeological artifacts that
every step taken threatens to destroy ancient culture.
In the
center of the island lie three Nubian villages, easily distinguished by
their colorful homes. In one, there is a section of town where the houses
are made of brick. These are the homes of some western women who have
adored Aswan and the people so much that they have married into the
culture.
The
Aswan Museum is found at the southern end of Elephantine Island. It houses
a nice collection of items found in and around Aswan including prehistoric
weapons, ancient maps, jewelry, and Greco-Roman mummies.
These
are just a few of the highlights of Aswan. If you wanted to spend a few
days here, there are many more temples, historic sites, and gardens to
visit. As a bridge between the Arab and African worlds, Aswan has a lot to
offer. One has not experienced all of Egypt without a stop in this
culturally diverse city.